Formalities first
Hong Kong and Macao travellers do not need an entry approval for Tibet; foreign travellers and Taiwan compatriots do. Foreign travellers normally travel with an arranged itinerary and guide, and the permit is declared by the receiving service once passport and visa details are supplied ahead of time. Anyone heading to border areas such as Dingri, Zhangmu, Yadong, Medog or Ngari also needs a border pass.
Health and altitude
People with serious hypertension or heart disease should not travel to the plateau, and a bad cold should be cured before departure. Rest, light meals, plenty of water and no rushing in the first 48 hours avoid most problems.
What to pack
Layered clothing — long-sleeve shirts, a wool sweater, a jacket — plus sunglasses, a sun hat, sunscreen, lip balm, and a down jacket and sleeping bag if you are heading for Everest. A small torch, wet wipes and personal medicine are useful; cash is still handy outside Lhasa.
On the road
Distances are long and meals can be late, so carry snacks. Guesthouses outside the main towns are basic; hot water is not guaranteed. Weather can close mountain passes, so keep a spare day in the plan.
Local customs
Respect local religious practice: walk clockwise around monasteries and stupas, ask before photographing people or ceremonies, and do not touch religious objects without permission.